I finally installed my reverse limiter override switch.  I had wanted to do this for some time now, but wanted a "sanitary" look and factory feel.  I didn't like the idea of the toggle switch for a variety of reasons.  One, is safety.  I kept thinking what if...I had the reverse override toggle on, and I forgot, or even worse, somebody jumped on the Grizzly and punched it in reverse.  Not a good scenario.  Thinking along those lines I also reasoned that when I'm in a situation and need to bypass my reverse limiter, I'm most likely in tight quarters, and what if "something" happens.  I get thrown or who knows.  A person can never anticipate everything that could happen.

So, I installed a reverse limiter momentary bypass press switch.  If anything happens while I'm bypassing the reverse limiter, it will stop-as long as my thumb comes off the button.  That, to me, was a better solution than having to try  and stop/slow down the Grizz with the brake or reach down and flip a toggle switch.   I  also wanted it to look factory. <BG>  I installed reverse override button on my left grip so that when I want reverse bypassed, I press the button with my left thumb.  I'm in control the entire time, and the second I let up on that button, the reverse limiter is once again engaged.  This is how other manufactures place these overrides on their quads, such as Arctic Cat, and quite honestly feel that Yamaha should have done the same. 

The Directions

The reverse limiter bypass switch. I'm kinda anal when it comes to my Grizzly and I just hated the thought of putting something on it that looked just like that: an after thought, and I wanted it convenient and safe. So far, this has done the trick. I tested it out on the grizzly with the rear tires off the floor, gave throttle until it started cutting out and then some more juice and pressed the button...Boom 35 miles an hour, took my thumb off the button and bingo, the power cut off instantly.

Materials I used:

Automotive wire (I used twelve gauge which I think is too big, would use a size or two smaller now for ease of installing)
Tie wraps (not really needed, but keeps it nice & tidy)
Shrink Wrap (not really needed, but keeps it nice & tidy)
Soldering Gun & Solder (needed only for the switch, could get by with solderless connectors everywhere else)
Drill & Bits
Pushbutton momentary switch
metric socket set/wrenches for taking the racks/hood, gas tank cover off
Epoxy
Small rubber grommet
multimeter
liquid electrical tape

What I did was went to radio shack and bought the following switch:

275-1547C
Pkg of 4
SPST Mini
Momentary Pushbutton Switch
N.O. contacts rated 0.5A at 125VAC, 0.3A at 50VDC (4 came in the package, 2 red buttons and 2 black buttons. I screwed up the two red ones until I got it right with the black one.)

The Nitty Gritty

I took off my front rack, front hood, gas tank cover, and that handle bar cover just to make it easier to get at the wires. If you're installing Hot Grips, as I was, you'll need to ream that hole out just a tad for the switch to fit and make sure you don't drill into any of the internal wiring, if you're keeping your stock grips, you'll just need to drill the hole wherever you want that button to be. Then I drilled another hole down at the bottom of my handle bars and pressed in the rubber grommet. From there, fish two wires from that bottom hole out of the hole in your grip. It takes a bit of time doing this...I think this is where I spent the most time..getting those wires out of the little grip hole. Once you have those two wires out of the grip hole, solder one to one of the switch's contacts and solder the other wire to the other contact. The switch only has two contacts and it doesn't matter which wire goes where, there's no polarity involved.

Once done with that, I coated the back of the contacts with liquid electrical tape. Now, you know most switches have a thread area and a small nut and that's how you lock the switch into place. You can't do that for two reasons:

*There isn't enough room to fish the switch through your handle bars and then up and out of the hole on your grip to thread the nut.

*Even if you could, the two contacts would be touching the metal inside of your handle bar 180 degree's from your bore hole, which would essentially bypass your reverse limiter all the time once it rubbed the liquid electrical tape off the connections.

So when you drill your hole you make it just big enough for the switch to fit. (I have a tap drill bit set so I could get the hole extremely close) Measure the depth of your handle bar and place the switch in, once the contacts are soldered to the two wires, just to the point where they still are not touching any metal inside. Then just use a tiny bit of epoxy to seat the switch in place. If anything was to ever go wrong, you could drill the switch out and fix it, or likely use a heat gun and pull it out once the epoxy releases...depending on the type of epoxy you use.

Before you do place your switch in and epoxy it, I would strongly suggest you take your multimeter and attach it at the end of both wires. Check for continuity. With the switch not being pressed, you shouldn't read anything, press the button, and while holding it down, you should show continuity. I also rechecked that once I seated the switch to in the handle bar just to double check I didn't screw the switch up or was touching metal inside the handle bar.

Now with those two wires hanging out at the bottom of your handle bar. I threaded them in front of the left front frame joist (sitting on the quad it's your left) and down under the gas tank along the frame (where the other wires are routed) tiewrapping every so often. when you get to that wire junction just below and to the right of your fuel shut off valve you'll see a big white wire harness clip held together by a black bungee (just like the thing that holds the funky tools they send you under your seat.) Release that clip, and you'll find one white and green striped wire all by it's lonesome with a bullet solderless connector under clear plastic. Take one of your wires and splice it into that wire. I would recommend soldering it and then shrink wrapping it when your done, that's what I did, but you can just use a solderless splice too. That's the end of wire number one. I also placed my splice so that it would fall under the protection of that wiring harness holder. Snap it back into place and replace the tie bungee. Wire number two, continue to wrap it down your frame and under your airbox lid and between the frame to the negative on your battery and attach it there. I'm sure you could just ground it to the frame anywhere, but I wanted it to be sanitary to the end.

Put your fuel tank cover back on, front hood & rack back on and slap that handle bar guard back on and you're done. You now have a factory looking reverse limiter bypass switch installed on your 2002 Grizzly. To test, you can securely place the rear of your Grizzly on a stable atv stand start 'r up, place it in reverse, throttle until the limiter kicks in and press your switch. The cutting out should cease immediately. Congrats you're done! If you have any more questions, please don't hesitate to email me.

I don't know if I have to say this but do this at your own risk, I'm not advocating this, and somebody could conceivably get hurt or worse by going too fast in reverse. You know what I mean.